External Areas

What to look for:

Vegetation; cracked or damaged paths and driveways; dips or signs of heave; loose, worn or damaged steps

Suggested action: 

Check that paths, driveways and steps are sound, free from vegetation and do not present any trip hazards.

Moss and algae, which can become very slippery when wet, can be effectively removed using a power washer. Wear goggles and direct the water away from buildings, walls and areas of poor drainage. For situations where a power washer is not suitable, use a proprietary patio cleaner. Avoid products containing hydrochloric acid or bleach as they can discolour some types of stone.

Larger self-seeded plants can severely damage paths and driveways if unchecked. Remove vegetation before it takes hold, using a systemic weed killer on tough plants, such as ivy and Japanese knotweed. If you are making the solution up from a concentrate, add a drop of washing-up liquid, which acts as a wetting agent, helping the weed killer to stick to the foliage. Repair any cracks left behind in the surface of the path or driveway to discourage further seeds from taking root.

Settlement and heaving of solid paths and driveways, particularly after frost, can indicate drainage problems, such as a defective soakaway, which should be investigated further. Alternatively, the damage might as a result of nearby tree roots. Seek advice from a building surveyor or architect and an experienced tree surgeon if trees or shrubs are involved

Arrange for loose or damaged steps to be repaired.

What to look for: 

Vegetation

Suggested action: 

Check for invasive plant growth and remove it or keep it under control.

While small flowering plants, such as ivy-leaved toadflax and herb robert, can be an attractive feature growing in a boundary wall, care should be taken to ensure that vegetation does not become invasive. Ivy, for example, can quickly smother a wall, it is difficult to kill and unless done with care, its removal can damage the mortar joints and soft stone or bricks. Cut back invasive plants regularly to keep them in check.

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What to look for:

Damaged or missing pointing; loose stones, particularly coping stones

Suggested action: 

Repair damaged walls and repoint using mortar to match the original. In most cases, this will be lime based.

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What to look for: 

Cracks, bulges and other signs of movement

Suggested action: 

If there are signs of movement in a wall, such as bulges or cracks, and these have recently formed or are getting worse, seek advice from a structural engineer.

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What to look for: 

Blistering paint and rusting metalwork, particularly in crevices and joints. Fractures and missing elements

Suggested action: 

Check the condition of paintwork and redecorate on a 3 to 4 yearly cycle.

What to look for: 

Branches overhanging the building; diseased, dying or dead trees or shrubs

Suggested action: 

Inspect trees and shrubs for signs of distress and disease. Remove overhanging branches.

Signs to look for include die back, canker, rot, hollows in stumps and fungus growing on or at the base of the tree.

Before carrying out any work to a tree, check with the local planning authority whether it is protected by a Tree Preservation Order or is within a Conservation Area.

Employ an experienced tree surgeon to carry out any work that is more than minor pruning that can be carried out safely from the ground. Arrange for any branches that overhang the building, and dead or diseased trees and shrubs to be removed. Cutting back overhanging branches can help to reduce the likelihood of gutters becoming blocked with fallen leaves, as well as improving the circulation of air around the building.

What to look for: 

Burst pipes

Suggested action: 

Find out where the mains water stopcock and external water pipes are located. Deal with burst pipes immediately to avoid wasting water.

It will rarely be necessary to switch the mains water supply off where it enters your plot, but it is wise to know where the stopcock is, just in case. It is usually located just outside your plot in a footway or road. If you can, try to establish were the pipes run between the stopcock and your building, especially if you intend doing excavation work in the area. You are responsible for the repair of the pipes on your side of the stopcock. Switch off the mains supply and call in a plumber if there are any problems.

A burst water main on the other side of the stopcock should be reported to the local water supply company immediately.

What to look for: 

Smell of gas 

Suggested action: 

If you smell gas outside your building, switch off any appliances, shut off the gas supply and ring the National Grid Gas Emergency Freephone – 0800 111 999.

For natural gas, the shut off valve will be in the gas meter box. This is usually a white box attached to the front of your building. If the meter box is outside, you will need to use a key to open it, so keep this somewhere handy. Do not smoke or use light switches, other electrical equipment or mobile phones, which could cause a spark. Extinguish any naked flames.

For more information on gas safety see gassaferegister.co.uk

What to look for: 

LPG — The smell of gas or damaged or corroded tank, fittings and pipework

Suggested action:

 Check your tank, fittings and pipework for the smell of gas and signs of corrosion, discolouration, cracks and crazing. Arrange for an inspection by your LPG supplier annually.

Make sure that the area around the tank is free from obstructions and easily accessible. Keep the area free from rubbish and combustible material, and keep nearby weeds and grass cut low. If the pipework runs underground, make sure you know where it is in order to avoid accidental damage.

Your tank will probably have a label on it explaining what to do in the event of a leak. Provided it is safe to approach, close the manual outlet valve on the tank to switch off the flow of gas. Call your LPG supplier to come and make the system safe. Your supplier will provide you with a 24-hour contact number for emergencies. Do not smoke or use light switches, other electrical equipment or mobile phones, which could cause a spark. Extinguish any naked flames.

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What to look for: 

Oil — Leaks, or damaged or corroded tank, fittings, pipework and bund

Suggested action: 

Check your tank and fittings, pipework and bund for leaks and signs of corrosion, oil staining, rust, discolouration, cracks and crazing. Have your tank and boiler inspected annually by an OFTEC-registered technician.

Check that your insurance policy will cover the cost of the clean-up operation and replacement oil in the event of a spill.

Do not smoke or allow naked flames near the tank or pipework. Make sure that the area around the tank is free from obstructions and easily accessible. If the pipework runs underground, make sure you know where it is in order to avoid accidental damage.

There should be a sticker on your tank explaining what to do in the event of an oil leak. If it is missing, a new one can be obtained from the Environment Agency. If there is a leak in the pipework, use the isolation valve to shut off the supply of oil from the tank. This is normally found at the outlet pipe.

Keep a small spill kit handy. These can be bought as kits or assembled yourself. They should contain as a minimum; rubber gloves, absorbent material, a container to collect and store the clean-up material, and sealing putty.

Stop oil spills from entering any drains or watercourses. On a hard surface this can be done by using sand or soil to contain the oil. Do not hose the area down as this will only spread the oil and do not use detergents. Call the UK Pollution Incident Emergency Hotline — 0800 80 70 60 — for advice.

For further advice on oil tanks go to www.oftec.org.

What to look for:

Effluent around inspections chambers, smells and slow flushing or overflowing WCs

Suggested action: 

Check the system to make sure that it is working efficiently and there are no obvious signs of problems.

Responsibility for private sewers rests with all of the properties that are connected to the system up to and including the point of connection with the public sewer.

Make sure that the covers to inspection chambers are not broken as this can encourage rats, as well as allowing debris, such as stones and earth, to get into the pipe and block it. Inspection covers were traditionally made of cast iron, which can shatter if given a heavy blow. When replacing a cover in an area used by vehicles, make sure that the new cover is strong enough to take the weight.

If you have a slow flushing or overflowing WC, there is almost certainly a blockage. Blockages are most frequently in the bend behind the WC, so try to clear this area first. If this fails or there are smells or effluent spilling out around the inspection chamber, call a plumber unless you have a set of drain rods and feel confident using them.

If it is a shared sewer and you are sure that the blockage is not in your part of the system, speak to your neighbours or contact the Environmental Health Department of your local authority for advice.

Sewers can be damaged by the roots of trees and shrubs, in which case seek advice from a structural engineer. However, most blockages are caused by flushing too much paper or unsuitable materials down the WC. These can include cotton buds, cotton wool, paper towels, disposable nappy liners or feminine hygiene products. These should never be flushed down the WC as they can get stuck in the system, causing a build up of material behind them.

If there is a problem with the public sewers, contact the local water or sewerage company and the local authority.

What to look for: 

Smells, slow flushing or overflowing WCs, effluent or dips in the ground near the inspection chambers, septic tank, cesspit or treatment plant

Suggested action: 

Check the system to make sure that it is working efficiently and there are no obvious signs of problems.

Check that ventilation covers are clear of obstructions and in good order. Make sure that the covers to inspection chambers are not broken as this can encourage rats, as well as allowing debris, such as stones and earth, to get into the pipe and block it. Inspection covers were traditionally made of cast iron, which can shatter if given a heavy blow. When replacing a cover in an area used by vehicles, make sure that the new cover is strong enough to take the weight.

Septic tanks and treatment plants rely on bacteria to digest the liquid effluent and these can be affected by what you introduce into the system. Do not flush chemicals, such as white spirit, grease or medicines down the drain, and do not use large qualities of bleach or biological cleaning agents as these will kill the natural bacteria.

Employ a licensed waste disposal contractor who holds the necessary permits to empty and check the condition of septic tanks, cesspits and treatment plants at least once a year. The frequency will depend on the size of the system and the number of people using it. Always follow the manufacturer's recommendations and seek advice from the waste disposal contractor if you are unsure or if you are experiencing any problems.

If you have a slow flushing or overflowing WC and the system has been emptied recently, there is almost certainly a blockage. Blockages are most frequently in the bend behind the WC, so try to clear this area first. If this fails or there are smells or effluent spilling out around the inspection chamber, call a plumber unless you have a set of drain rods and feel confident using them.

Sewers can be damaged by the roots of trees and shrubs, in which case seek advice from an experienced tree surgeon. However, most blockages are caused by flushing too much paper or unsuitable materials down the WC. These can include cotton buds, cotton wool, paper towels, disposable nappy liners or feminine hygiene products. These should never be flushed down the WC as they can get stuck in the system, causing a build up of material behind them.

Cesspits are sealed systems, but septic tanks and treatment plants have an outflow to discharge the liquid waste once it has passed through the tank. With septic tanks, the liquid is discharged into the ground through a soakaway system consisting of a series of perforated pipes. These must be within the top 3 feet (1 metre) of soil to allow the natural bacteria to work. They can therefore easily be damaged, so take care when disturbing the ground in the area of the soakaway.

Soakaways are susceptible to problems, particularly in clay soils during the winter months when the water table is likely to be raised. This can prevent the liquid from draining away. In addition to the usual indications that there is a blockage, signs to look out for include effluent and boggy areas or dips in the ground around the tank or inspection chambers. If you see any of these signs seek advice from the contractor who empties your tank.

Treatment plants contain an electric rotor, which makes them more efficient than septic tanks at treating the waste. Consequently, the outflow may be discharged into a watercourse or ditch — with the appropriate consents from the Environment Agency and Building Control Section of your local authority. Treatment plants are useful in situations where the ground conditions are not suitable for a soakaway, but they must be properly and regularly maintained. Always follow the manufacturer's recommendations and set up a maintenance contract with a company approved by the manufacturer.