Utilities

What to look for: 

Leaks and damp patches

Suggested action: 

Check hot-water cylinders, pipes, radiators and valves for leaks, particularly around the joints and connections. For more serious or persistent problems call a plumber.

If you have a pressurized hot-water system, as with a combi boiler, check the pressure gauge regularly. If the pressure drops below the usual operating pressure — typically 1 bar — this can indicate that there is a leak somewhere in the system, which should be sought out and dealt with as quickly as possible.

If a radiator valve is leaking, tighten the nut slightly, taking care not to over tighten it. If you cannot find the leak or it is in awkward place that is difficult to get at, a sealant designed for wet central heating systems may help, provided that the leak is only small. These are added to the circulating water. Call a plumber if the leak is serious or you have persistent problems.

Insulate hot-water tanks and hot-water pipes to improve energy efficiency.

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What to look for: 

Poorly working radiators

Suggested action: 

Check all radiators to see if any are cooler at the top than the bottom. Bleed the air from those.

Air in the system is the most common reason for individual radiators not heating up as normal. This is an easy problem to remedy in a conventional gravity-fed system with a header tank. In such systems, the tank is located above the level of the hot-water cylinder, often in the roof space or attic.

To remove air from a radiator, switch the pump off. Fit a bleed key in the bleed valve of the radiator affected; this is usually found at the top of the radiator at one end. Turn the key anti-clockwise by half a turn. Keep a cloth handy to catch the water that will begin to dribble out once the air has been expelled. Once this happens, turn the key back clockwise, taking care not over tighten the valve.

With a pressurized system, including any system operating with a combi boiler, it may be necessary to adjust the water pressure after removing the air from the radiator. Check the pressure and top it up if necessary, following the boiler manufacturer's instructions. Seek advice from a heating engineer if you are in any doubt.

If air in the radiators is a recurring problem check the system carefully for leaks.

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What to look for: 

Inefficient or poorly operating boilers

Suggested action: 

Arrange for the boiler to be serviced annually or sooner if there are any problems.

Boilers should be installed, serviced and repaired only by a qualified contractor, that is, an engineer registered on the Gas Safe Register; an NICEIC- registered electrician, or an OFTEC-registered technician for oil installations.

Fit carbon monoxide detectors

What to look for: 

Dripping taps

Suggested action: 

Fix dripping taps as soon as possible to avoid wasting water.

The most common cause of a dripping tap is a worn washer. This is relatively easy to replace in most conventional types of tap, but call in a plumber if you are in any doubt.

Firstly, turn the stopcock anti-clockwise to switch off the hot- or cold-water supply — depending on whether it is a hot or cold tap that is dripping — and turn the tap on to drain the system. For cold-water taps, you will probably find the stopcock under the kitchen sink. The hot-water stopcock will usually be found near the hot-water cylinder in the airing cupboard. If the stopcock is stuck fast, do not force it. Instead, spray on a penetrating oil to ease it, leave it for a few minutes and try again.

To replace the washer in a simple pillar type tap, loosen the main valve nut, which is the larger of the two nuts between the body of the tap and the handle. To do this, place a piece of thin cloth between the nut and the spanner to protect the nut against scratches. Hold the spout of the tap very firmly to prevent it moving and turn the nut anti-clockwise. Lift out the inner part of the tap to reveal the washer, which is attached to the lower end of it. Prise off the old washer, releasing the retaining nut first if there is one, and fit a new washer.

Before reassembling, look into the body of the tap to check the condition of the valve seat. This should be clean and free from scratches. If it is scratched and the tap continues to drip after the washer has been replaced, the valve seat will need to be ground down by a plumber to provide a good seal once more.

For taps that have the valve nut inside the body, remove the small plastic cap at the top of the tap to reveal the screw, which connects the knob to the spindle. Remove the screw and lift the knob off to reveal the nut underneath. Release the nut with a spanner, holding the spout firmly as before and continue by following the instructions above.

Once the tap has been reassembled, turn the stopcock back on and check the pipework below the tap carefully for leaks.

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What to look for:

Blocked sink, bath or shower outlet, drain smells

Suggested action: 

Unclog the outlets of sinks, baths and showers, and use a drain cleaner to help keep the pipework clear.

If waste water is not draining away or only draining slowly, use a sink plunger to help dislodge the blockage, remembering to cover the overflow with a cloth. Cover the plughole with the plunger and fill the sink, bath or shower tray with enough water to cover the rubber cup. Pump the plunger up and down a few times until the water runs away freely. Clean the area afterwards with disinfectant.

If the blockage is not dislodged, put a bucket underneath the outlet and unscrew the trap. Use a piece of wire, such as a bent coat hanger to remove any stubborn material from the waste pipe. When the pipe is clear, rinse the plughole with a little water and disinfectant. Wrap the screw threads of the trap with plumbing repair tape to prevent leaks when the system is reassembled, applying the tape in the same direction as the thread. Screw the trap back together and flush it through with water to check for leaks.

Use drain cleaner or disinfectant to tackle bad smells coming from the outside drain into which waste water discharges. If this fails, wearing rubber gloves, lift off the grille and remove any obstructions within reach. If the problem persists, consult a plumber.

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What to look for: 

Dripping overflow pipe or water stains and moss growth on walls below the outlet

Suggested action: 

Check all overflow pipes. If a pipe is found to be dripping, adjust the ball valve in the cistern or water tank to prevent water damage to the wall below.

Cisterns and water tanks that are connected to the mains water supply are fitted with a ball valve to shut the supply off when the tank is full. In the event that this fails, excess water is discharged away from the building via an overflow pipe, which projects beyond the outer face of a nearby external wall. If water is dripping or the wall below the pipe is damp or stained, check that the ball valve in the cistern or water tank is working effectively. It should shut off the water supply when the level reaches about 1” (25mm) below the level of the overflow outlet. Adjust the float arm if necessary.

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What to look for: 

Leaking water pipes

Suggested action: 

Check supply and waste water pipes, particularly around the joints and connections. Call a plumber to repair any leaks as soon as possible.

To help limit the damage before the repair can be carried out, if the leak is in the supply system, turn the stopcock off if possible and switch on a tap to drain the water out of the system.

If a waste water pipe is leaking do not use any sink, bath or shower that is connected to it.

Before the onset of winter ensure that exposed cold-water taps, pipes and water tanks are properly lagged to prevent water from freezing and bursting the pipes. If the building is going to be vacant for any length of time, switch the water supply off and drain the system.

Insulate hot-water tanks and hot-water pipes to improve energy efficiency.

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What to look for: 

Blocked WC

Suggested action: 

If after flushing the water level in the pan remains higher or lower than normal, there is a blockage, which must be removed.

Most blockages occur in the trap behind the WC and are usually caused by too much paper being used. Other common causes are cotton buds, cotton wool, paper towels, disposable nappy liners or feminine hygiene products. These should never be flushed down the WC as they can get stuck in the system, causing a build up of material behind them. This is particularly important if you have a septic tank, small treatment plant or macerating toilet.

If the WC is slow to clear, but not completely blocked, reflushing can sometimes help to dislodge the material. However, there is a risk that the water will overflow the pan.

More serious blockages in an ordinary toilet may be dislodged by using a plunger. Never attempt this with a macerating toilet as you may damage the equipment. Wear rubber gloves and place the plunger in the bottom of the pan. Holding the plunger firmly, push it down hard several times to force water down into the trap, taking care to avoid getting splashed.

If this fails and there is a nearby sink or other outlet connected to the same pipe run, switch on the tap to check whether the water drains away normally. If not, the blockage is lower down in the system. Unless you have a set of drain rods and feel confident using them, call a plumber.

What to look for: 

The smell of gas

Suggested action: 

Open doors and windows, shut off gas supply, and call the National Grid Gas Emergency Freephone — 0800 111 999.

If you smell gas, open the windows and doors, and check whether an appliance has been left on unlit. If not, shut off the gas supply. For natural gas, the shut off valve will be in the gas meter box. This is usually a white box attached to the front of your building. If the meter box is outside, you will need to use a key to open it, so keep this somewhere handy.

For LPG, close the manual outlet valve on the tank to switch off the flow of gas. Your supplier will provide you with a 24-hour contact number in case of emergencies.

If you smell gas, do not smoke or use light switches, other electrical equipment or mobile phones, which could cause a spark. Extinguish any naked flames.

For more information on gas safety see www.gassaferegister.co.uk and www.hse.gov.uk.

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What to look for: 

Pilot lights that frequently blow out, blocked air vents, signs of soot or stains.

Suggested action: 

Check that air vents and flues are kept clear at all times. Check for signs of soot or stains around the appliance, and that flames and pilot lights are burning normally. Have appliances serviced annually.

Arrange for gas appliances to be serviced at least annually by an installer registered on the Gas Safe Register. Arrange sooner if soot or stains are seen around an appliance, if flames and pilot lights burn yellow, rather than blue, if pilot lights frequently blow out, or if carbon monoxide detectors show a high reading. These signs can indicate that there is a blockage in the flue.

Seek immediate medical attention if you have any of the six main signs of carbon monoxide poisoning – headaches, dizziness, nausea, breathlessness, collapse or loss of consciousness.

For more information on gas safety see www.gassaferegister.co.uk and www.hse.gov.uk.

What to look for:

Loose or damaged cables, flickering lights, sparks or otherwise defective equipment

Suggested action: 

Inspect wiring, installations and portable equipment for damaged or loose cables and plugs, and signs of overheating. Ensure that plugs are fitted with the correct fuse for the type of appliance.

Do not use equipment that is damaged or showing signs of wear, and never use plug-in appliances in a dusty or damp environment.

If a plug fuse blows, replace it with one of the correct rating for the equipment. Check the instructions that came with the appliance or contact the manufacturer for advice. Generally, a 3-amp fuse is used for appliances up to 720 watts and a 13-amp fuse for appliances between 720-3000 watts.

A blown fuse or tripped switch in your fuse box is a sign that there is a problem with the electrical circuit to which it is connected. Always find the cause of the problem, such as overloading or a faulty appliance, before replacing the fuse or resetting the trip switch.

The Institute of Electrical Engineers recommends that portable electrical equipment be tested by a competent person on a cyclical basis between 3 months and 4 years, depending on the type of equipment.

Arrange for wiring to be tested at least once every 5 years and always use a NICEIC-registered electrician to carry out electrical repairs.